Skee-ba-bop-skiddly-bop! ‘Sup, cool cats? Beijing might not have the Peace Hotel jazz heritage of neighbour Shanghai but there are still a few choice spots for righteous jiving in the capital. So put on your zoot suits and get down with our guide to the best jazz clubs in Beijing.
East Shore Jazz Café
Tap your feet to some of the city’s sharpest jazz at this cosy second-floor venue with views across the neon-lit shores of Houhai Lake. A community vibe attracts quality musicians for rambling late-night jam sessions that heat up after 10pm (Sunday is especially popular), making it a cool post-dinner spot to sup a few bottles of Belgian beer or red wine if you’re in the Gulou ‘hood. East Shore has genuine star credentials too, opened by saxophonist Liu Yuan, who toured with “father of Chinese rock and roll” Cui Jian.
2 Shichahai Nanyuan, +86 10 8403 2131. Wednesdays to Sundays, no cover charge
Yue Fu Jazz Club (This venue is now CLOSED)
A dozen candlelit tables face a small stage at this discreet new jazz den on the fifteenth floor of Beijing’s trendy Moma development. In the adjoining bar and terrace you can enjoy pricy but impeccable mixed drinks or wine flights (proprietor Leon Lee is also the brains behind Sanlitun cocktail den Apothecary). Audiophiles will appreciate the crystal clear sound system; the musicians certainly do, with an increasingly credible roster of local and international acts choosing to jive here. Check their Facebook page for details of upcoming performances.
Contemporary MOMA Bldg T6, 15/F, Moma, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, +86 10 5204 9698. Two sets nightly Thursday-Saturday 9pm & 11pm, Cover charge varies
Modernista
Gaze moodily over your glass of absinthe as you groove to the strains of gypsy jazz, straight jazz, swing and more at this artsy favourite in the heart of the Gulou neighbourhood. Opened by a mix of European and Chinese cats, regular performances on the tiny corner stage pack in the patrons like sardines, so aim to get there early and bag a balcony table upstairs with views of the stage and a bit more breathing room. Tapas snacks like imported ham and cheese plates match the Parisian cafe decor. See what’s on at their Facebook page.
44 Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng District.+86 136 9142 5744. Open daily, live music most nights.
CJW
A terrific house jazz band from the US have been in residence at CJW (Cigar Jazz Wine) for the last few months, with nightly shows from 9pm. An upscale Taiwanese brand with venues in Shanghai and Shenzhen, CJW has a bit more of a posh hotel vibe than some of the other venues on this list, but it’s a classical speakeasy performance space, with a stage facing small circular tables flanked by two bars, and discreet, dimly lit booths further back. A broad wine selection, cigars (of course) and contemporary Mediterranean cuisine complete the package.
The Place, 9a Guanghua Lu, +86 10 6587 1222. Open daily, generally no cover, but drinks prices rise after 8pm
Centro
It’s an old cliché, but this is a place to see and be seen. Though volume levels are modest, the accomplished house jazz band is more than mere background music – best savoured with a gorgeous champagne cocktail. The wait staff aren’t too shabby either, in keeping with the fairly pretentious service concept of “beautiful people serving beautiful people”.
1 Guanghua Lu, +86 10 6561 8833. No cover
Café CD Blues
Though Big John’s Blues Band is the main pull at this friendly venue close to the north gate of Ritan Park, the music policy is all inclusive, featuring swing, Latin, rock and roll, and jazz (mostly on Wednesdays and Fridays – check the schedule here). Cocktails, bottled beers and a western food menu mean you can make a night of it, and it’s a short stagger from legendary Russian nightclub Chocolate, if you want to take things up (down?) a notch.
39 Shenlu Lu, +86 10 8561 0560. Open daily, no cover.
Dusk Dawn Club
The newest venue on this list, DDC is a hutong hideaway close to the National Art Museum offering a mixed programme of jazz, folk and indie rock. A hip and happening space, it retains a traditional hutong atmosphere with its courtyard bar while being more upscale than Jianghu, the well-loved hutong dive venue where DDC’s proprietor used to cut his trade. A menu of craft and single malt whiskies is on trend with the Beijing hipster set.
14 Shanlao Hutong, +86 10 6407 8969. Tuesday to Sunday, no cover.
About the author: Tom O’Malley is Propaganda Secretary at Bespoke Beijing. A lifestyle journalist, guidebook author, glutton and bon vivant, Tom is a tireless crusader for fine food, hospitality and tourist experiences in China’s capital.