[dropcap]E[/dropcap]xcitement about the 2013 opening of Pak Pak, a Thai joint by the folks behind adorable Vietnamese hideaway Susu (plus new partners), was muted slightly by the fact that the restaurant was in far-flung Tianjin Wangjing. Well, prepare to get fully excited and bid a galangal-infused welcome to Pak Pak Central Park in the heart of downtown Beijing.
Like the Wangjing location, the new Pak Pak has a biz setting and vibe. Where Susu is refined and romantic, Pak Pak is bright and commercial, with the feel of an upscale high street chain. Casual bar and counter seating caters for the express lunch crowd, so you can wolf down a deconstructed pad Thai before heading back to the office to put cover sheets on those TPS reports.
The Pak Pak team jetted to Thailand on a food-finding mission to inject some original tastes into the menu. We’re getting pretty fired up about the prospect of fried chicken buried in crispy garlic (inspired by a famous Bangkok alleyway joint), and that mouth-watering street food staple of grilled “sour” sausage from the northeast of Thailand.
Favourite dishes from the first location, such as the authentically spicy papaya salad, the pad kra pow beef ‘n basil stir-fry, and the tender steamed perch in lime broth are still going strong, but there’s a bunch more salads and wraps to choose from, and some awesome new regional additions – about a quarter of the dishes are new and improved.
American designer Phil Dunn (Janes and Hooch, Tribe) is responsible for the bright and functional decor, with bamboo surfaces and illuminated Thai coloured glass paneling. It’s a casual chain theme you could see being rolled out across the city. Chefs are on show via a semi-open kitchen, adding to the general buzz. Price-wise it’s a shade cheaper than Susu, working out about 100-150 RMB per person for dinner; cheaper still at lunch.
Another first in the new location is a dedicated bar where cocktails and juices are spiked with lychee, lemongrass, lime, ginger, and other SE Asian accoutrements. Here’s hoping Pak Pak becomes a post-work bar for the ‘hood, although the jury’s out on the “Yum Tom”, essentially a tom yum soup in cocktail form, with coriander, coconut and galangal plus booze. Never fear, we’ll try it and report back – keep an eye out on our Facebook.
Pak Pak is on the ground floor of the Guanghua International building (光华国际店), just south of Central Park and east of The Place. It should be open to the public by the beginning of December 2014.
Enough about Thai street food – what about Beijing? Get to know your jianbing from your tanghulu on our foodie favourite Beijing Street Snacks and Market Tour.
About the author: Tom O’Malley is Propaganda Secretary at Bespoke Beijing. A lifestyle journalist, guidebook author, glutton and bon vivant, Tom is a tireless crusader for fine food, hospitality and tourist experiences in China’s capital.