Take a hike, Tsingtao! Be gone, Bud Light! Err… skedaddle, Skol! Yep, drinkers around the world are turning their backs on big brand beers and celebrating the rise of the craft brew. In China beer traditionally means light lager with an even lighter price tag, but craft ales have finally caught on in the capital. These days everyone has an opinion on what beer to drink and where to drink it (including us), so we’ve put together this guide for incoming visitors, to help you look like you know the score when it comes to craft beer in Beijing. Cheers!
Great Leap Brewing
The thirsty pioneers who started it all. Way back in the dark days of 2009 it was a single brew – the now legendary Pale Ale No. 6 – sold from a trestle table at the 798 Art District. Fast forward five years and they’ve got three venues, a line-up of over 20 beers and have helped steward the scene to maturity with everything from beer festivals to homebrew classes. Their success isn’t just by virtue of being first; it’s down to the single-minded ambition of the founders, American-born Carl and Chinese partner Liu Fang, who have a knack of seeing the bigger picture while putting all those little details in line. And making exceedingly tasty beer, of course.
Where
Three locations around town (#6, #12 and #45, named according to the street numbers), but our favourite remains #6, the original hutong digs, best visited on a summer evening to sup alfresco on the tree-shaded patio. #45 is the new location, on soft opening at time of writing, and design-wise a near replica of the flagship branch #12– here’s what we wrote about that when it first opened.
Top tipples
The Honey Ma Gold is an amber-hued ale with a local twist – in this case an infusion of Sichuan peppercorns and Shandong date honey (6% abv). The Aggressor is darker and punchier, with a warm, roasted finish (7% abv).
Line your stomach
The Green Machine Pizza is top dog at the new #45 location: kale, shallots, black pepper ricotta cheese and roasted garlic on hand-pulled dough, courtesy of Taco Bar’s Kin. If you’re at #12, go for the GLB Burger – a charred lamb patty with tzatziki sauce and a mountain of crisp fries. At the original #6 location it’s free spicy peanuts only, or you can order in from local eateries.
Slow Boat Brewery
Before he got into making suds, Slow Boat founder Chandler was the classic expat entrepreneur in China, with internet start-ups and other biz under his belt. In 2011, he saw the potential of craft beer, joined up with fellow American Daniel Hebert to brew the first Slow Boat creations, and started pushing them, pop-up style, in restaurants and venues around town. In late 2012 the Slow Boat Brewery Taproom opened its doors, and they’ve since progressed to some fine bottled beers which are available around town in bars, shops and even via Wechat.
Where
Decked out in white subway tiles, the Slow Boat Brewery Taproom at 56 Dongsi Batiao is a compact hutong hangout with an unpretentious vibe and a friendly, communal table type set-up.
Top tipples
Captain’s Pale Ale is the flagship brew at Slow Boat, a dark copper ale with a hint of citrus and a crisp, sweet finish. (5.5% abv). For a beer with more kick, try The First Immortal Double India Pale Ale, a stronger, hoppier and more bitter brew (bottled) for grownups. (8% abv)
Line your stomach
The award-wining Anxiety Burger is loaded with blue cheese, red onions and a third-pound patty cooked to order. Seasoned fries are an addictive bucket of grease bombs battered in Slow Boat beer.
Jing A
American founders Kris and Alex were hobbyist brewers balancing corporate careers in Beijing until they realised their true calling. Off went the ties, on went the, er, beer-making overalls, and by 2013 they had set up permanent brewing facilities at finger-lickin’ chicken ‘n ribs eatery Big Smoke Bistro. A year and a bit later, a pop-up residency in the stylish 1949 Hidden City complex in Sanlitun proved such a success that they agreed more permanent terms, and thirsty punters have been packing the place nightly ever since.
Where
Jing A Taproom is kind of more bar than pub, with a dressier clientele than other craft beer spots in town. Exposed brick, bare bulbs, and all the other trimmings of the season complete a classy set-up, enhanced with new outdoor seating come the spring.
Top tipples
Flying Fist IPA is a hoppy, citrusy pour with a refreshing, almost tropical zing (6.5%). For something seasonal, the Toasted Chestnut Brown Ale, a dark amber winter special, is made in tribute to Beijing’s street side chestnut sellers.
Line your stomach
The Jing A crew are just getting started with the food, but they knock-up rustic tapas platters and a grilled cheese sandwich with accompanying tomato soup. Opt for the Big Smoke Location, of course, and you’ve got sticky ribs and truffle fries a-plenty.
NBeer
More of a homebrew collective than a bonafide brew pub, this curious establishment is run by Yin Hai and Xiao Bian’r, a Chinese restaurateur who made his name with guidebook favourite Pass-by Bar and Restaurant on Nanluoguxiang. Beyond a few craft creations of their own, NBeer excels as a supporter and purveyor of other hard-to-find Chinese craft beers from outside the capital, as well as a few genuine international oddities (stored in their humongous beer fridge). Word on the street is that Mister Yin also rolls the occasional hop “joint” for customers, but we’re still waiting for ours…
Where
NBeer is found inside a multi-storey building at the top end of Huguosi, a gentrified food street close to Pingan’li subway station.
Top tipples
Anything by the Chengdu Harvest Brewing Company, all the way from Sichuan Province.
Line your stomach
Not much on offer beyond rudimentary fries and lamb skewers, but there’s a bright and welcoming Mexican restaurant just next door.
Panda Brew Pub
Panda Brew Pub had been in and out of tiny dive digs for a while until new investment last year saw them move to a shiny new location. Opened by one Pan Dinghao, who apparently first learned about craft-brewing when abroad it Canada, it’s an enormous venue over two floors, all industrial steel and graffiti murals. A growing roster of beers keeps the bitterness levels low for local palates. Like NBeer, Panda is another wholly Chinese enterprise, so if the boys in black and white can build a decent customer base, it’s another sign that craft beer in China is evolving beyond its western roots.
Where
A gargantuan spot on 14 Dongsi Bei Dajie, close to Beixinqiao subway station. Inside, check out the questionable mural of the scantily-clad beer-drinking vixen.
Top tipples
Too Fool IPA is assertively floral and fresh and very light on hops. Too Old Stout is a light, easy-drinking dark beer.
Line your stomach
A simple selection of offerings, including garlic fries, chicken wings and, strangely, devilled eggs.
Have a sore head after one too many craft beers? Never fear – our brilliant tour guides will speak extra softly, keep you plied with bottled water, and even find you an asprin or two if necessary.
About the author: Tom O’Malley is Propaganda Secretary at Bespoke Beijing. A lifestyle journalist, guidebook author, glutton and bon vivant, Tom is a tireless crusader for fine food, hospitality and tourist experiences in China’s capital.