Shanghai’s a hard city to leave – not just because there is so much to do here, but also because it’s so darn big. The 24 million headcount doesn’t include the numerous (often very large) cities that sit just outside its borders, making for one of the most densely populated areas on earth.
If you’d like a day out of town, the ‘water towns’ are your best bet. Located on tributaries of the Grand Canal, you’ll find classic Chinese scenery here – wooden boats drift along winding waterways crossed by stone bridges. These scenes are a real treat for photographers and those who would like a taste of how this region would have looked in years gone by. What you’re seeing is a mix of preservation and restoration for visitors. Commercial development has been rapid in some of the towns – you’ll need to purchase a ticket to enter, for example, and most have a growing number of cafes and stores. In this respect, we’d say it’s best to think of these towns as ‘open museums’ rather than unspoiled, rural idylls.
Our top tips? Do what you can to avoid visiting on weekends or public holidays when visitor numbers swell dramatically. Early birds might consider setting out first thing in the morning to beat the crowds and get a glimpse of the streets at their quiet best.
With more than ten towns to choose from, it’s hard to know which option is best. But we’ve put together a handy round-up of three Bespoke faves. You’re welcome!
Wuzhen – ‘The Classic’
Distance: 120km (approx. 2 hours)
Ticket: 150RMB includes all the sites and a boat ride
Wuzhen is one of the largest and best known of the water towns and is a full day trip from Shanghai. Divided into two distinct sections with a short drive between them, the western part is picture perfect – cobblestone streets line the crystal canal and the bathrooms are (gasp!) disarmingly well maintained. This is a great place to sample the local delicacies (we love the zongzi, sticky rice steamed in lotus leaves) as even snack stands looks spotless. Exhibitions on foot-binding, soy sauce making and more are diverting and well done. In fact, it’s almost a little too perfect. You’ll get the feeling that no-one actually lives here. The eastern section, a 10 minute drive away, redresses the balance – rougher and readier, laundry hangs above the canal and locals bump along the cobblestones on bikes carrying their shopping with them.
Zhujiajiao – ‘The Easy Option’
Distance: 50km (approx. 50 – 60 minutes)
Ticket: 80RMB includes a shared boat ride
Zhujiajiao is a relatively easy hop down the highway, making it a simple half-day trip from downtown. Visually, it’s one of the most charming of the towns with impressive bridges that arch over the intersecting canals – a lovely backdrop for boat rides. Of the sites here we especially enjoy Ke Zhi Yuan, an elegant classical garden residence built by a Qing Dynasty government official. You’ll also find plenty of cutesy cafes that come in handy for particularly hot (or wet) days. The downside? Zhujiajiao’s accessibility mean it is hugely popular with locals, resulting in a more commercial feel and clogging its narrow streets with visitors at busy times.
Fengjing – ‘The Under-the-Radar’
Distance: 65km (approx. 70 minutes)
Ticket: 50RMB includes access to all sites
Fengjing is the smallest of the options listed here but, whilst you’ll encounter some tourist development, it sees far fewer visitors giving it a more low-key feel. Laid out roughly in the shape of a cross, the best strategy is to make a circuit of the town taking in stops at the various exhibits that are peppered throughout. Our favorite is the former town commune which introduces how life changed in the town after the Communist liberation in 1949, and includes air raid shelters and a quirky ‘Chairman Mao Badge Museum’. Snacking is popular with locals and casual eateries line the canal – ‘shao mai’ dumplings are popular here, but the most celebrated delicacy, and one of the adventurous, is pork trotter stewed in soy sauce and yellow wine. Fengjing doesn’t offer many creature comforts – don’t expect a soy latte or spotless facilities – but is a rewarding trip for those looking for a more rustic experience away from the crowds.
Want to visit the Water Towns with Bespoke Shanghai? Email us and we’ll be in touch.