Dunhuang is a lovely place, it really is. Sweeping desert sandscapes, ancient Buddhist grottoes… unfortunately it takes a butt-numbingly long and wallet-bustingly expensive flight to get there. You could say we’re grateful, then, that the Lost Heaven team have spared us the time and serious expense in bringing a little bit of the Silk Road to our very own former French Concession.
The vast venue is an attraction in itself, spread over two huge floors with a huge terrace brushing up against the leafy plane trees of Julu Lu. It’s easy to be overwhelmed by the huge space, but do not miss (we did on our first two visits) the room tucked away at the back behind the bathrooms. A painstakingly accurate partial replica of Dunhuang’s Mogao Caves awaits, ignored by most of the diners. The perfect spot for a pre-dinner drink.
There’s food too, of course. If Lost Heaven were a boyfriend it would be the one you introduce to your parents. Just dashing and exotic enough to impress them but familiar and ordinary enough that they know what they’re dealing with! The menu here is ambitious, setting out to conquer a large swathe of the Silk Road not just in China but far beyond – from the delicious Xi’an liangpi (cold noodles) via Kashmiri curries to Persian salads hailing from many thousands of miles to the west.
Our favorite dishes? The Tang Wei Hu Bing, flatbreads stuffed with tender lamb, and the Iceleaf Salad, which included crunchy figs, raisins and what tasted suspiciously like blue cheese dressing. Other orders, like the Persian Pomegranate Chicken for example, lacked flair – though the management assures us they’re currently tweaking and refining the menu based on feedback.
Of course, if you’ve been to Lost Heaven’s previous ventures you’ll know that it’s not all about culinary puritanism – diners obsessed with authenticity might want to search further afield but those willing to indulge in a little escapism might just find themselves swept away by this desert fantasy.
Lost Heaven Silk Road is located at 798 Julu Lu (near Fumin Lu). Tel (021) 6266 91816.