After a scorching summer, it’s easy to forget that Beijing (like Winterfell in HBO’s Game of Thrones), is northern, lad. Aye. And that’s all there is to it. What this means of course, is that WINTER IS COMING. The days are drawing in, the leaves are withering, and the bobble hats will soon be out. But we reckon there’s a whole lot to love about this transitional period between fire and ice, also known as Autumn in Beijing.
Roasted sweet potatoes
Beijing’s roving bicycle ovens are already out in force on street corners and back alleys, hawking these steamy packages of sweet golden spud. A clever combination of satisfying snack and hand warmer, di gua are usually sold by the jin (500g) – expect to pay about 5 to 8 RMB per potato.
Hutong rituals
The hutongs are the best place to observe Beijing’s seasonal rituals, and one of our faves is what we call THE CABBAGE INVASION. Be afraid. Sometime around late October, an army of green brassica rapa will swamp our city’s alleyways, stacked on window ledges and heaped in doorways as locals batten down for the winter. And in a matter of days, it’ll all be over. Look out for the appearance of coal carts too, and don’t forget to wrap your digits around a bag of roasted chestnuts.
Wild wall adventures
In a couple of months the wild sections of Beijing’s Ming-era Great Wall will be too frosty for serious hiking. And in the summer and early autumn, many of the most exciting stretches are simply too overgrown with foliage and trees sprouting up from between the bricks. But now – RIGHT NOW – the walls and watchtowers around Jiankou are just about perfect.
Hot pot returns
Beijing’s tastiest eats are definitely best suited to the colder months, so come October / November it’s de rigueur to put hot pot back on the eating agenda. Beijing’s take on the dish – sliced mutton dunked in spicy soup then dipped in sesame sauce – is just about the most fun you can have with your clothes on. And seriously, keep them on. That soup scalds.
About the author: Tom O’Malley is Propaganda Secretary at Bespoke Beijing. A lifestyle journalist, guidebook author, glutton and bon vivant, Tom is a tireless crusader for fine food, hospitality and tourist experiences in China’s capital.