We’ll leave it to the guidebooks to quack on about the merits of world famous Peking duck restaurants like Dadong, Duck de Chine, and the state-owned behemoth that is Quanjude. You are here because you are an advanced duck lover and you want to experience something deliciously different. These lesser-known Peking ducks are shy birds, not easily spotted. But we’ll show you how.
(Peking duck? What’s that all about then? Read our two-minute history to the crispy-skinned signature dish Beijing gave to the world here.)
The Hyper Local Duck: Deyuan
Slap-bang in the middle of Beijing’s atmospheric Dashilan hutong area, this unsung restaurant deserves a wider following. Deyuan’s crisp-skinned duck is around half the price of the big boys and – shhh! – just as tasty. Why? Because Deyuan is only about 10 years old with no “time-honoured” label to lure in the tourists, so it simply cooks great food at great prices and doesn’t feel like a tourist trap. Beyond the classic roast duck the menu offers a great range of authentically rustic Beijing fare – cumin roast lamb, donkey meat sandwiches, ma doufu (mungbean pulp, pickles and crispy soy beans cooked in lamb fat – gorgeous) and hearty stews bursting with shrimp, beef, bacon and country veggies. Simply adorned but clean and well-run, it’s perfect for people-spotting local Beijingers in their element – stuffing their faces, supping big bottles of beer, and generally making merry.
Where? 57 Dashilan Xidajie, Xicheng District.
The Family Duck: Liu Zhai Shifu (刘宅食府)
The Liu family have lived in this covered courtyard home for over a century, but they only opened as a restaurant serving lao (old) Beijing style fare about 15 years ago. Two types of Peking ducks are available – one better quality than the other according to our waitress but we’ve had both and can’t really tell the difference. Both are roasted in hung ovens over fruitwood, and come with the typical fixings of steamed wheat pancakes, julienned cucumber and onions, minced garlic, and sugar (to dip the pieces of skin). It’s a cheap and cheerful spot that’s a hit with locals, who all seem to order the boiled tripe (another lao Beijing classic), served under a heap of coriander with a sticky sesame dipping sauce. If you’re feeling in need of a little medicinal wine, the Lius have a groovy selection of apothecary style bottles infused with everything from seahorse to snake.
Where? 8 Meishuguan Dong Lu, Dongcheng District (in an alley set back from the road so look for red lanterns that mark the entrance).
The Hipster Duck: Monkey King Roast Duck (齐天楼烤鸭店)
This back-to-basics Peking duck joint makes up for its canteen-like Communist decor with deliciously juicy ducks at local prices and a handy location mere metres away from our favourite hipster hangout, Cafe Zarah (more on that here.) Perfect if your lunchtime dining needs require something more substantial than a Zarah sandwich or salad – you can even bring your coffee with you (we know this from experience because no one seemed to mind). Or why not mix up an evening slurping Old Fashioneds at hipster hutong dens with a down-to-earth duck banquet? It’s like, more real, dudes.
Where? 26 Gulou Dongdajie (a few doors east of Cafe Zarah)
The Classic Duck, Rebooted: Siji Minfu
Hungry diners queue at the door for the practically perfect Peking duck at this innovative local eatery that insists on seasonality and says no to MSG. The birds are expertly roasted so that the skin is shatter-crisp and the flesh unctuously tender. At the Qianmen location it’s a cosy, comfy, well-appointed dining rooms that lets you know the owners “get it”. Well-drilled staff serve up dazzling takes on local classics like zhajiang mian (Beijing’s signature wheat noodles topped with meat sauce and crunchy vegetables), nourishing soups, fresh seafood and a whopping selection of sweet snacks the city is famous for.
Where? Several locations, but our fave is at 18 Dashilan Er Tiao (just west of the top end of Qianmen Avenue.)
The Yuppie Duck: Little Dadong
In the heart of Beijing’s coolest shopping mall (yes, cool – we totes adore Parkview Green), Little Dadong is the latest venture from chef Dong Zhenxiang, but this time he’s done away with the tome-like menu and fussy molecular type dishes to focus on what he does best – perfectly crisp Peking duck (plus a range of down-to-earth classics, along with zen-like salads and other offerings with a wellness twist). The focus at Little Dadong is on quality ingredients over pretentious platings – try the delicious shredded cabbage salad studded with tiny dried shrimp and doused in vinegar. Filled with plants and long hardwood tables, Little Dadong is bright, contemporary and welcoming – a world away from your typical Peking duck emporium.
Where? Lower-ground 2, 11a, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu.
Quackers about Peking Duck? Try our Peking Duck Experience, where you get to watch master duck chefs at work (and eat what they create, of course!)