Shanghai’s foodie credentials have never been more prolific – featuring ever higher on ‘Best Restaurant’ lists and in the glossy write-ups in international travel mags. But of course that’s just a tiny part of the story – the vast majority of locals rarely make the trek to the Bund for fine dining, and why would they, when some of the best food in the city comes from a hole in the wall?
That’s right, the food we’d happily pole-vault the Great Wall of China for is in fact much more local. There are just a few things you need to experience it: an empty stomach, a willingness to veer off the beaten track, and, with nary a word of English spoken in most tiny local establishments (let alone written), a lot of guidance is key. Enter Bespoke and our foodie expert: an experienced, well-connected food critic who knows every culinary corner of the city. Roll up your sleeves and prepare to jostle for a red plastic stool – we’re taking you local.
The star of our first stop on our tour needs little introduction: the unofficial snack of Shanghai, the xiaolongbao (soup dumpling). Bespoke’s chosen family-run hole-in-the-wall looks humble, but the dumplings are made fresh onsite each morning before being steamed to order at the front of the premises then delivered piping hot to your table.
If this is your first bite of this classic dish, prepare to fall in love. But listen to your expert before diving in – when not handled with due respect, these juicy little guys can cause serious tongue-scalding. Those feeling bold can also order a side of malatang – your choice of fresh veggies are stewed in a broth rich with Sichuan peppercorns, giving them the mala (‘numbing spice’) edge beloved of local diners.
In the name of digestion, a short stroll takes us to our next stop. The area is home to an intriguing mix of crumbling lane houses and grandiose homes surrounded by high walls (former Chinese president Jiang Zemin is rumoured to live in the area). We tour a lively wet market similar to those found all over the city. Like many others, this market has been smartened up in the last couple of years as standards improve and regulations tighten.
As we enter, we grab a shaobing to munch as we go – this baked, flaky pastry is available in sweet or savory varieties – stuffed with red bean paste or salted vegetables. The market is a fascinating experience. Your expert uses the heaped piles of fresh produce to explain both the principles that underpin Chinese eating habits, and the ways they’re changing in a country increasingly concerned with healthy eating and food safety. You’ll see more varieties of tofu than you ever thought possible and learn, amongst other things, how ‘mouthfeel’ is just as important in Shanghainese cuisine as flavor.
Time to put some of this theory back into practice. We hop across the street to a three story restaurant packed with lunching locals. Freshly made noodles are the order of the day here, and you can select from a number of varieties. Sluuurp! Fair warning – noisy noodle eating isn’t considered bad manners in China (we’d even go as far as to say it’s the traditional technique) – and you know how the saying goes: if you can’t beat ‘em…
We also love the juicy wontons stuffed with pork and leak and served in a clear broth. To offset the carbs our expert adds a couple of vegetable dishes here – recommendations depend on the season but a favourite is jiuxiang caotou, a kind of clover sautéed in local rice wine that’s crunchy, delicious and unique to the region.
And so ends our jaunt through some of Shanghai’s most charming backstreets. That you’ll leave with a full stomach is a given, but we hope you’ll come away with a bit more knowledge about Chinese food culture too.
Want to eat lile a local with Bespoke? All of our Eat Like a Local Tours are private. Find out more here or email us at [email protected].