Love, like the food of Yunnan province, is best served red-hot, passionate and all-consuming. Bordering Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam, and home to 25 distinct ethnic groups, Yunnan seduces the senses (especially the taste buds) like no other Chinese province. The combination of Southeast Asian-inspired spice married with the region’s abundance of wild ingredients makes for a singularly unique dining experience. We love it, basically.
And considering Beijing is 1,662 miles away from Yunnan’s provincial capital Kunming, our city manages a pretty impressive showcase of the region’s specialities. But which of Beijing’s best Yunnan restaurants is perfect for you? Yes, you sitting there all alone with your computer / iPad / iPhone. Read this guide and discover your one true match.
The China newbie – Dali Courtyard
DC combines fuss-free set menus of foreigner-friendly Yunnan fare (lemongrass grilled fish, mint salads, umami-rich ‘shroom stir-fries) with a lovely courtyard backdrop. A true Beijing classic guaranteed to wow visiting friends and family.
67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, 8404 1430
The ultimate foodie – Yunteng Shifu
If you seek culinary authenticity above all else, this restaurant, attached to the Yunnan Provincial Government Office, is for you. With fresh and rare ingredients flown in regularly, you’ve got guaranteed bragging rights on the dishes here tasting more true to their roots than anywhere else in town. You also get a stark, canteen like ambience, little or no spoken English and a typically ambivalent government-style welcome. Authenticity, dear!
7 Donghuashi Beili Dong, Chongwenmen, 6711 3322
The bon vivant – Lost Heaven
In the stylish former US legation compound, Lost Heaven is where Yunnan food gets the white tablecloth treatment. Take a date here and romance them with dishes infused with wild mountain flowers, or high-end creations like steamed cod with Yunnan black truffle. If you demand impeccable service and a serious wine-list to go with your Yunnan experience, here is your place.
Unit G, 23 Qianmen Dong Dajie, 8516 2698
The party planner – In & Out
In Beijing’s premier party district, this Sanlitun stalwart is the perfect spot to kick off a night out with friends. Comfortable private rooms are tailor made for birthday party-sized groups, and the fresh and plentiful food ticks all the boxes. Service from the uniformed staff can be a bit absent at busy times, so do what the locals do: open the door and holler!
1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, 8454 0086
The hutong hipster – Southern Barbarian
A Shanghai brand, Southern Barbarian eschews ethnic knick-knacks for clean, minimalist interior design. Yunnan aficionados will be instantly at home with the food (Bai-style fried goat cheese, fluffy potato balls, ‘cross the bridge’ noodles), but the classy drinks list might surprise you. No plum wine here – you’ll have to try a lemongrass mojito instead.
Baochao Hotel, 107 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, 8408 3372
The trendsetter – Hani Geju
Beijing’s newest Yunnan restaurant might look typically traditional with its ethnically inspired décor, but Hani Geju is full of innovative thinking. Organic sourcing? Yes please. Taster sets for lunch featuring tapas-sized portions of their star dishes? Don’t mind if we do. Dutch-born manager Sue Zhou and her Yunnanese business partner Wen Juan might be on to something…
The bargain hunter – Dali Renjia
A more than reliable all-rounder, Dali Renjia is the sort of family-style restaurant you can visit multiple times in a week without feeling like you’re splashing out. Best of all, the steamed fish, jasmine flowers with egg, and fried jizong mushrooms with chilli are up there with the best in the city.
80 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, 158-1039-2366
The scenester – Middle 8th
At this trendy Sanlitun hot spot, look up from your sweet ‘n sticky pineapple rice for long enough and you might spot some celebs getting their Yunnan fix. The libation of choice here is a comically tall bamboo pitcher of milky rice wine – fragrant and delicious. For a double dose of starch, get the sweet potato rice with mushrooms and chives. Yum.
S8-40, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Village South, 6415 8858
About the author: Tom O’Malley is Propaganda Secretary at Bespoke Beijing. A lifestyle journalist, guidebook author, glutton and bon vivant, Tom is a tireless crusader for fine food, hospitality and tourist experiences in China’s capital.