Shanghai’s stock of fabulous old buildings sometimes seems to dwindle by the day. As the city marches relentlessly toward its prosperous and harmonious future, one of two fates seems to befall our historical gems:
- They are razed to the ground by teams of bulldozers and replaced by office blocks.
- They are ‘restored to their original to condition’ (i.e. the architectural equivalent of a lobotomy is performed – we’re looking at you, Ruijin Intercontinental Hotel!).
There are still a handful of historic Shanghai hotels that, whilst bearing the brutal scars of decades of government management, retain just enough charm for lovers of creaky floorboards and original plasterwork for ‘Old Shanghai’ geeks like Bespoke to enjoy sneaking around. Here are a few of our heritage favorites with a big caveat: do not expect five star service at these joints (The Peninsula is full for a reason, right?). In fact, the lower you set your expectations, the better you’ll fare.
While those in the know won’t be surprised by the continued popularity of 
Forget Gulou– we’re going to go out on a limb and say that Dashilan has the greatest concentration of cool coffee shops per square meter in Beijing. That’s right – from artisanal Soloist Coffee at 39 Yangmeizhu Xiejie (where they brew only the finest and you can recline in old salvaged armchairs) to Berry Beans, an early 20th century brothel that’s been converted into a gorgeous café with a little terrace (No.7 Zhujia Hutong).
Hunan resto The Southern Fish (166 Yangmeizhu Xiejie) flew under the radar for years until they made it onto Travel + Leisure’s hip list. And they’re not the only ones. Inde Japanese chain Suzuki Kitchen (10-14 Yangmeizhu Xiejie) has one of the best spaces on Yangmeizhu – a beautifully zen long room, filled with light and with its own kooky picnic area out front.