Cast your minds back to Beijing, circa 1915. The last Qing emperor has abdicated, revolution is in the air, and chaos reigns. Warlords vie for power, and some, like Duan Qirui, have seized it, effectively becoming the dictator-in-chief of northern China.
Reckoned the most powerful man in the country between 1916-20, he ran the show from this Western neo-baroque style complex still standing today, close to Zhangzizhonglu subway station (line 5 / 6). Duan’s fortunes faded fast, and later the Japanese moved in, and after them the Kuomintang. Today the complex is listed as a protected relic, with parts of it serving as university accommodation.
And you’ll certainly encounter a studenty, arty crowd if you can find this excellent little cafe tucked away in the east of the complex. Called Peanut Cafe, it’s the very definition of hidden gem. (It’s taken us five years to find it…!)
Occupying a bare stone building with nice natural light and a comfy interior veranda area, it’s one of the more quirky spots in the city to pop in for a cappuccino or a smoothie, or get a bite to eat from the sandwich and pasta menu (5pm onwards).
There’s plenty of outdoor seating at the Peanut Cafe Beijing for the warming months, and you get great views of the quite unique architecture – there’s nothing else like it in the city. In fact, we’d strongly encourage a visit simply to wander around this remarkable complex. There is a guard at the entrance but it’s perfectly OK to enter – just say you’re going to the cafe.
If you explore beyond the brick buildings you’ll discover several of these remarkable wooden apartments, looking like something out of Louisiana circa 19th century, and badly in need of repair. Who knows how much longer they’ll be around, so visit soon!
Address: 3 Zhangzizhong Rd, Dongcheng District (go in the entrance and take the first right) +86 (0)10 6403 0688
About the author: Tom O’Malley is Propaganda Secretary at Bespoke Beijing. A lifestyle journalist, guidebook author, glutton and bon vivant, Tom is a tireless crusader for fine food, hospitality and tourist experiences in China’s capital.