It’s no secret that rapid urban development has squeezed Shanghai’s street food scene to within an inch of its life in the last couple of decades. But despite the rise and rise of mall dining (not always a bad thing we might add), there is a particular breed of hole-in-the-wall dining that continues to thrive in the city, and one that we suggest all visitors try at least once during their stay.
In many cases these old-school eateries have been run by the same families for decades, with almost no changes to the menu (or, for that matter, décor) in the interim, and offer a taste of the Shanghai dining scene that existed before we’d even dreamt of Michelin stars – though it’s worth mentioning that some of these spots have since earned some!
Don’t expect a warm welcome from the staff: these folks are here to serve hungry masses, not walk you through the menu or debate the merits of MSG, but treating this as part of the old world charm will see you through. Get that game face on and prepare to sample some of the tastiest, best value food in the city.
Wei Xiang Zhai
The archetypal Shanghai ‘hole in the wall’, no one seems quite sure how long Wei Xiang Zhai has been slinging noodles, but a quick glance at the, ahem, well-worn interior will quickly tell you it’s in the multiple decades. Don’t let the impatient sighs of the grumpy cashier (nor the crowded dining room) intimidate you – your mission is clear: a dish of their legendary ma jiang ban mian (10 RMB). These noodles are topped with a deliciously creamy sesame sauce and then splashed with vinegar and chili, an ample reward for your valiant efforts in obtaining them.
Wei Xiang Zhai 14 Yandang Road (Tel +86 21 5383 9032)
Jia Jia Tang Bao
Xiaolongbao (soup dumpling) specialist Jia Jia has made quite a name for itself over the years. As a result, the wait times here can be epic, especially at the original Huanghe Road location. Once you’ve finally reached the front of the line, prepare to be informed in no uncertain terms that the classic pork variety are sold out and you’ll need to splurge on the premium crab-filled versions instead. Hmm. Regardless, the delicious dumplings (from 23RMB a basket) here are a bargain and steamed to order so they always arrive at the table piping hot, plus you get to see them being made by hand in the open kitchen. Bring an empty stomach and a lot of patience for this one.
Jia Jia Tang Bao 91 Huanghe Road (Tel +86 21 6327 6878)
Da Hu Chun
There are several branches around the city but we’re fans of the original 1932(!) location near the Bund – one of the only places to get great local eats in an area better known for fine dining. Da Hu Chun serves up some of the finest shengjianbao (crispy pork dumplings) in the city. Truth be told, the staff here have been rather lovely on our recent visits but it’s a busy place so prepare to jostle for a seat regardless of what time you get here.
A plate of four deliciously bready bao (12 RMB) is enough to fill a grown man for an afternoon and is best washed down with a bowl of the house beef broth. Vegetarians take note: requests for meat-free options are given short shrift in this porky neck of the woods.
Da Hu Chun 138 Sichuan Zhong Lu (Tel 021 6313 0155)
Er Guang Wonton
Serving what we reckon are the tastiest wontons (from 20 RMB) in the city, these bad boys are stuffed with shepherd’s purse and pork and can be served in broth or (our favorite) gan ban, the house-made sesame sauce. You’re missing a trick if you don’t add a side order of their famous fried pork chop which should be liberally doused in local Worcestershire sauce, a legacy of Shanghai’s foreign concession days.
Er Guang’s current location clings precariously to the fringes of Shanghai’s quickly disappearing old city area and is scrappily charming, if not opulent. Inquiries as to the location of a bathroom are met with a roll of the eyes and a vague jab of the finger toward a grotty alleyway across the road. Open until 2am, they draw a lively post-pub crowd that is quite a sight to behold.
Er Guang Wonton 109 Huangjiaque Lu (tel +86-158-0068-5638)
Linlongfang
Linlongfang flies below the radar compared to affiliated Jia Jia Tang Bao (see above) and for that we’re thankful – shorter wait times and more tables result in a relaxed atmosphere and a relatively chilled out staff. As at Jia Jia, the excellent xiaolongbao are made in an open kitchen and steamed to order so they are equally delicious.
Don’t forget to order the fresh ginger dipping sauce (the best 1 kuai you can spend in this town) which brings heaps of flavor. We can also never quite resist adding a bowl of their cong you ban mian (scallion noodles) to our order, another iconic Shanghai eat which is done well here.
Linlongfang 10 Jianguo Road (tel 021 6386 7021)
Are you a huge foodie? Check out Bespoke’s Ultimate Culinary Tour of China here. Or get in touch with us for help curating your meals, tour guides to help you get around and much more.